Friday 7 November 2008

Arabian Nights in Abu Dhabi



I am staying in a palace. Picture Aladdin or a scene from 1001 Nights, with balconies, charming beds, Persian rugs and marble staircases. Craig's house is a dream and of course no one knew this because he's so non-chalant and in a different mentality than me. This is just where he grew up, a place in the world, a material house. I see it as an exotic, wealthy space and just what the doctor ordered. Upon arrival, I enjoyed seeing all the Arab men wearing their white clothes over the head (I promise I'll find out the name) and the architecture is beautiful. I walk into the Arrivals gate and say "Uh oh"...No Craig- only creepy Arab and Indian men looking at me. And I look like I was spit out of a cave after four years. But soon he arrives, with Mel, who I love instantly. She has a British accent and is half Italian, half British but grew up here. Craig's friends Shane (from South Africa) and Joey (from Scotland) are up front. The weather is instantly hot and muggy, even at 10pm.

I have only been here a night and already I'm in love with the Middle East. Or at least the rich, secular, Dubai, palace bit... Craig and his friends all agree that Abu Dhabi is chiller and the people in Dubai are assholes. "You'll see," they tell me. Keep you posted. The drive from the airport, we pass the world's 2nd largest mosque, in the process of being finished. It is stunning. Great big domes rise up into the night sky and a courtyard down below reveals all these beautiful archways and mosaics. I can't help thinking of the cover of the Aladdin movie at the sight of the dome. God, Americans are so stupid.
Craig lives in what I imagine is the Beacon Hill, the Park Avenue, the Rodeo Dirve of Abu Dhabi. On a jeti that juts out into the bay, his neighborhood has a guard gate and the world's collection of the nicest cards I've ever seen all in the one place. If there's one way to flaunt your wealth around here, its what you drive...and how many. Already, in one evening, I have seen such nice Ferraris and Porsches, it would put L.A to shame. Craig's house in almost at the end, on the sea side. His mom is wonderful...I love her instantly. She immediately shows me my own guest room, complete with its own bathroom, a king size bed, with the most luscious duvet that you just want to melt into bed. Which I eventually do.

I think I've been transported to a five-star hotel. Seriously. This is even nicer than the Ritz. Quick chat with Mom and Dad then off with friends to Shayne's house to watch Clerks II. But not without stopping at Marrouche's for some incredible schwarmas. When you haven't eaten a proper meal in 24 hours and you eat this- oh man, I had to keep myself from groaning. Me and Mel are the only girls there out of a crowd of about fifty other men. Takes some getting used to. On the way home, I catch a glimpse of Emirates Palace- a grandiose (on any scale) palace (literally, I mean, come on!) complete with its own jewel-encrusted gateway dome, archways and more jewel-encrusted entrances. God, I love it here!
When we get home and 2am, I get into my leopard prints robe and silk slippers that Diane set aside for me and sink into bed with those gorgeous pillows. But not before going out on my balcony and pining to my prince- just kidding. I look out at the view of the water, look up at the sky, look at the stars and say a quiet thank you for this opportunity.

I cannot remember the last time I've woken up so incandescently happy in such a comfortable place. I spent my first few waking moments trying to actually enjoy how comfy I was and how I actually did not have to get up for anything or be anywhere at a certain time. Heaven.
Bernadette, their housekeeper, makes us incredible pancakes, bacon and coffee, which we ate right in front the TV. Then-outside! By the pool! Craig and I walked down the coast line, along the big concrete blocks, right along the azure blue water. Craig sublty mentions that his neighbors are all either heads of government or own something big. Driving through is a car show of every house with a Ferrari or Porsche parked out front. One guy even paints the inside of his garage to match his new car every week. Hey Americans, wanna know where all your money is going with the high petrol prices? You got it! Wealth come to life.
The whole day was spent lounging in the hot tub or pool, talking with listening to Diane's great stories. What a sweetheart. She just had surgery on her feet so she's still resting. We talked about everything- from the birth of her two children to organized religion to living abroad.
Later on in the day, Shayne came over to chill out. We took another walk to see the Emirates' Palace- so beautiful. In the other direction, 5 hours on water and you hit Iran! I wanna go!
We get ready to go out around 4pm to do some shopping first. I haven't brought nearly enough clothes so Shayne and Craig become my posse of shopping dudes. The malls here are incredibly ostentatious as anything and all brand spankin' new. Even outside, every building, every street, every car is new, new, new. And anything "old" (30 plus years) is getting torn down and rebuilt. As a result there is construction partout (Pardon my French, but I'm writing this from France and sometimes their words just fill so...perfectly).
I buy some sandals, top and shirt. Much better. Quick stop at Shane's for a Fawlty Tower episode then off to Bambu! for all-you-can-eat-and-drink!!! Bad idea....We order a shitload of appetizers, soup, pork fried dumplings, and guzzle beer upon beer (and wine!). Joe the Scotsman joins us, then Mo- my favorite. He's this huge Arab dude, a local, with a passion for comics and a refusal for alcohol and pork. He's not exactly in good company...

No comments: